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Thesis Gems and JewelryThesis Gems and Jewelry

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Thesis Gems - fine jewelry with ethically sourced gems

Tucson: The Gem Hunt

Posted on March 10, 2026


When the city of Tucson awakens in late winter, it does so with the urgency and glitter of a marketplace at dawn: tents unfurl, display cases click open, dealers re-check lighting, and a din of stone hunters — jewelers, collectors, dealers and dealers-in-waiting — flood the desert corridors in search of rarity. We had a busy week with reunions, friends, amid the dry desert setting and uncovered some exciting specimens this year.


Investment quality gems ARE BECOMING MORE RARE: This year it felt more difficult to find the finest stones in several categories. Namibian Indigo tourmalines and African Winza rubies are nearly non-existent, with other mines having low supply such as emeralds from Colombia, where it is increasingly difficult to find the truly high-crystal, untreated material. Trends are trending: Jewelers & Retailers are talking about an increased emphasis on unique, colorful diamonds and gemstones — especially stones with unusual cuts, shapes, and distinctive colors rather than generic rounds or commodity-style material that is easily confused with lab-grown material. Consumers enjoy “one-of-one” gems that tell a story and can’t be easily price-shopped online. There’s buzz around elongated shapes (emerald cuts, marquise, hexagons, and other fancy silhouettes), earthy tones, muted but rich color palettes, and pieces that feel fresh and distinctive for upcoming collections. Diamond cabochons, gorgeous hard-stone such as chatoyant malachite, true antique gems, and rare pearls really caught our eye and we always select artisanally cut gems compared to mass-produced material. We find that gems which are cut in a way where the color and crystal are most honored, rather than weight- with exceptional polish, are the most charismatic. This is a great sourcing opportunity for us to buy for our clients, especially rare and unusual gems. We spent five days looking through hundreds of booths and thousands of gemstones to find exceptional specimens and get a sensibility for the array of gems that are on the market at the moment.

The Recap

Fine spinel, tourmaline, garnet, topaz, aquamarine continue to delight and gain value. Champagne diamonds are appreciated less as an underdog. Phenomenal gems have a special place in our heart- with adularescence, star effects, and color-change. One-of-one cuts, and artisanally cut gems have more value.

Organization of the Tucson Gem and Mineral Season Tucson isn’t one single fair but a confluence of several shows lining different venues. Below are the fairs I attended on the 2026 trip and my impressions.

AGTA (American Gem Trade Association) AGTA showcases some of the finest stones sourced and cut by American lapidaries. This is where we work with local dealers and long-time friends. We used to assist a booth with a special diamond-dealer friend Randy Poli of Poli Trading Company; but for the past two years we-ve focused full-time on sourcing for clients.

GJX (Gem & Jewelry Exchange) GJX is an energetic bazaar filled with dealers from all over the world — many representing the countries of origin for their stones. It’s crowded and can be confusing; finding a trustworthy new dealer takes time. I was fortunate to meet up with another designer and my trusted “truffle pig” sourcing manager, who helped lead the hunt. Great deals and high-quality material can be found after long days of searching.

Pueblo Pueblo has a rustic, wild-west vibe and features incredible specimens: large semi-precious stones, geodes, polished hard-stone material, and unique rock specimens. We find notable pieces for client gifts, display and inspiration here.

Dinosaur Alley An off-the-beaten-path section featuring fossils, rare coins, and shells — we bought a megaladon tooth for our son here, it’s a must-see for collectors interested in natural history specimens. There are even several other smaller shows which we will explore with you next year!

 

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