Introduction by Thesis:
Portrait cut diamonds possess historical significance as one of the oldest cuts and accompaniments to highly personalized jewels. In the 1600’s, before the age of photography, these diamonds were used in sentimental jewelry to protect and adorn small oil painting portraits of loved ones.Portrait cut diamonds are typically fashioned with very high-qualitydiamond crystal and little to no flaws. Unlike some other highly faceted diamond cuts, these have nothing to hide.
One factor that is driving popularity of the portrait cut diamond is the growing interest in antique cut diamonds and their illustrious and rich histories. Portrait cut diamonds have importance in both the past and in the present— appealing to clients who love creating symbolic customized projects as well as celebrating the unusual or unexpected. Our diamond expert and source Randy Poli, from Poli Trading Co. will dive more deeply into the intricacies of the portrait cut below, and what makes it so special.
Interview with Randy Poli, of Poli Trading Co., diamond dealer and expert.
- What's the appeal of the portrait cut, and why might consumers gravitate towards it? Portrait cuts have appeal on several different levels, but I think the most prominent reason lies in its subtlety and the way that it can be incorporated to thoughtful design while still maintaining a low profile both literally and figuratively. Opinions amongst consumers and designers can be pretty polarizing, people either like them or don't understand the appeal at all with very little in between, so the audience is still niche. I think the people that do love them appreciate the artistic side of how they are cut and manufactured. There really is no mass production of portrait cuts and you very rarely ever see the same type of stone twice.
- What is so special about the cut and what design opportunities does it offer? When done properly, the cut is really quite special in its adaptability to many shapes and the massive spread in measurements that can be achieved. A well made portrait cut will generally have a depth below 20% with a thin girdle, while still maintaining a beautiful outer band of facets that give the stone an elegant brilliance that is present without being overbearing. With these types of specs, the stone will generally look 2 - 4 times larger than its carat weight would indicate with the large "portrait" center leaving a blank canvas to display and amplify whatever design element the designer chooses to put underneath. These features can vary anwhere from a mosaic or enamel miniature painting, an initial, some diamond pave work or hand engraving to name a few.
- What do you think is driving the portrait cut's current popularity? I believe that the two main factors driving popularity and demand for portraits currently are the resurgence/popularity of vintage and antique cuts and the emerging designers using them in contemporary work that is mainly showcased online and via social media. Antique/vintage stones tell a story that people seem to really connect with and there is no better place for the client to connect and learn about these types of stones than through social media. Clients tend to find an emotional connection with both the designer as well as the stones so I think both really have a synergy in driving the popularity. Previously, one would really have to do a lot of legwork to get exposed to enough antique and vintage jewelry to even see a portrait cut. Now, they have the resources to explore at their fingertips.
- Has the cut evolved? Is the contemporary portrait cut slightly different from a vintage one? Historically, portrait cuts have served different purposes. With roots in antique Indian jewelry, portrait cuts were very thin slivers of diamonds with little to no outer faceting that were encased in gold bezels in intricate designs. Moving forward to the deco era, they were used as the "crystal" for elegant cocktail watches with more of a prominent , broadly faceted outer rim. There are current iterations of the cut that honor both traditions (little to no faceting and more prominent), but I think current manufacturers are willing to experiment with a wide variety of shapes that previously were not really available. Faceting for newer stones has also become a bit smaller and more condensed to enhance brilliance.
- In terms of pricing portrait cuts – how does it compare to other fancy cuts? I would say that pricing really depends on the quality of cuttingand the rarity of the item. In more approachable sizes I would say you can find portrait cuts for anywhere from 5-25% less than traditional fancy cuts depending upon how well the stone is cut and exotic the shape. These are still very niche items with very few dealers that are willing to stock them so I would expect to pay a bit of a premium if you are looking for something special. Larger size portrait cuts are extremely difficult to find so expect to pay up if you are on the hunt. Vintage and antique portrait cuts are extremely desirable and trade at decent premiums to traditional fancy cuts amongst those that are "in the know".
- How would you describe portrait cuts to your clients? Is it a hard one to sell? I would describe a portrait cut to a client as a way to capture some vintage/antique aesthetic in a modern creation that will allow the diamond to be more of a vehicle to display and preserve a more artistic vision rather than the diamond being the focal point of the design. It gives the diamond a different purpose than we are generally used to. I don't think the cut is a hard sell because the connection to the stone for the client is generally instantly there or it isn't. People that don't like it generally move on quickly and people that it clicks with don't need much selling. It is certainly not a cut for most people, but those that like it generally do so on sight.
We wear wedding bands to show our commitment to our partners. We give jewelry as gifts to commemorate important milestones. We pass heirloom pieces down through the generations. We hold onto pieces that reflect our cultures, our religions, and our family legacies.
You can learn a lot about a person by the jewelry they choose to wear.
Take a look at any runway show, magazine spread, or red carpet, and you’ll soon see how jewelry is transcending traditional gender norms.
Though genderless or androgynous jewelry is nothing new, it’s more popular than ever in 2023. In the same vein, styles that have traditionally been viewed as masculine or feminine are a playground for expressing personal style and subverting expectations about traditional gender roles.
As more and more people come to understand that gender is not a clear binary, jewelry is rising to meet the moment. After all, why should someone’s gender determine their personal style any more than it impacts their favorite food or the music they like to listen to?
We all deserve to wear whatever makes us feel comfortable, confident, and at home in our own skin. And in that regard, jewelry is a powerful tool for self-expression.
When we think about jewelry and gender, it’s important to remember that the modern, Western perspective is not the only point of view.
Many cultures have rich traditions of men wearing jewelry to show off military prowess, wealth, or rank. Jewelry can also hold deep religious significance, like the Kara in Sikhism or the Catholic rosary.
If you only view jewelry through the lens of gender and aesthetics, you may miss out on deeper, more meaningful messages that a person’s adornment can communicate about who they are and how they see the world.
And if jewelry can mean so many different things in so many different cultures, then why shouldn’t we be able to choose what message we want to send to the world through our own style?
At Thesis Gems and Jewelry, we understand the power of jewelry. And we believe everyone deserves pieces that make them feel confident and true to who they are.
That inclusivity doesn’t just impact our approach to design, it also informs our commitment to quality and sustainability. We source our materials from companies that prioritize quality while also treating workers and the environment responsibly, and we donate to organizations that are fighting for a cleaner, more just planet.
Whether you’re purchasing a custom design or ordering a piece from our online store, you can feel confident knowing that you’re investing in a sustainably, ethically made piece that will bring you joy without needing to harm the workers or the land it comes from.
If you’re interested in collaborating on a custom commission that expresses who you are and makes you feel euphoric, we would be honored to work with you. Please send us an email if you’d like to learn more.]]>Whether you are purchasing gifts for a cherished loved one, expanding your collection, or treating yourself to a one-of-a-kind piece that will last a lifetime, you deserve a piece that reflects your unique tastes and style.
Because each of our pieces is unique, we always love the opportunity to bring our customers in on the design process. Through our custom commissions, we can co-create something beautiful that represents who you are and the legacy you want to leave.
From Australia to Hong Kong to the United States, Thesis works with clients all across the world. Wherever you are, we can work with you to create the piece of your dreams.
We will also go to great lengths to ensure your jewelry arrives safely and in the best condition. Our shipping is fully insured, so if anything does go wrong, we will be sure to make it right.
Jewelry is only as beautiful as the impact it makes on the world around it. When you work with Thesis Gems, you can be confident you are investing in materials and processes that are kind to people and to the planet.
Unfortunately, this is not always the case in the jewelry industry. Far too many jewels and precious metals are sourced, bought, and sold without regard for the environment they are extracted from or the working conditions of the people who mine them.
At Thesis Gems, we are committed to only sourcing jewelry from the highest caliber of sources. We take the time to ask hard questions and ensure that all our gems and metals come from places that treat the workers and the land responsibly.
We also prioritize giving back by consistently donating to organizations that are fighting for a healthier planet and a better life for the people who inhabit it.
Jewelry is not just a short-term purpose. When investing in a high-quality, custom commission, you are purchasing a piece that can outlast you, leaving a legacy for your children and your children’s children.
What kind of story do you want to tell with the items you leave behind for your children? With Thesis Gems, you can tell a story of beauty that’s obtained ethically, and designed to the highest possible caliber for you and for the ones you love.
Whether you have a specific design in mind or want to work together to discover something beautiful, our team at Thesis Gems would be honored to take on your project. To learn more about ordering a custom commission from Thesis Gems, please fill out this form to get in touch.
Let’s create something beautiful, together!]]>On June 24th, we are thrilled to extend an exclusive invite to such an event. This private, invite-only gathering will provide an intimate experience for all gem and jewelry enthusiasts alike.
The event will take place at a private location from 3:00 pm to 9:00 pm.
The event will not only be an eye-opener for gem enthusiasts but a culinary delight. We are delighted to announce a collaboration with renowned Chef Chris Ratcliff. Known for his extraordinary dishes and thoughtful celebration of the season, Chef Chris will be preparing a special menu for our distinguished guests.
Indulge in the exquisite flavors of local and natural champagne and wine, Golden Osetra caviar, White Sturgeon caviar, and a menu designed and prepared by Chef Chris to enhance your gastronomic experience including yellowfin tuna and arriancini.
The evening will give you the opportunity to peruse our curated collection of gems, antique and vintage jewelry, and watches. With each piece telling a unique story, you'll have the chance to explore and handle these precious objects at your leisure, much like the relaxed atmosphere of our previous events Gems and Cocktails.
Adding a spark of fun to the night, we will host a gem-related trivia challenge. Test your knowledge on all things gem-related and have a chance to win exciting prizes.
Thoroughly enjoy the experience of looking and handling fine gems and diamonds, antique and modern heirloom jewelry, all while honoring our palate.
Get in touch with us today to confirm your exclusive invite. Call us at 510-556-6443 or email our founder personally at cate@thesisgems.com.
If you are interested in making purchases that better align with your values and your vision for the world, jewelry made with Fairmined gold is an excellent place to start.
The Fairmined standard was created in 2007 by the Alliance for Responsible Mining to promote gold that is better for people and for the planet. The standard assures organizational development, environmental protection, social development, and healthy working conditions at any places where Fairmined gold is mined.
At Thesis Gems, we are proud to work only with Fairmined gold, as part of our commitment to sustainable, ethical jewelry and precious metals.
Here are three compelling reasons to seek out Fairmined gold when making your next jewelry purchase.
In order to meet the Fairmined standard, gold must be traceable and extracted with best practices for preserving the environment. This includes the responsible use of toxic chemicals, the gradual reduction of toxic chemical use over time, protection of water supplies, and small-scale, low-impact operations.
Fairmined Ecological gold meets an even higher environmental standard, with no use of toxic chemicals and additional environmental requirements. This gold is also mined in concert with rehabilitation efforts that support the native ecosystems.
Do you know what businesses you are supporting when you purchase jewelry? Mining is rarely done with sustainability in mind and impact on the communities they mine in. So, unless we are being intentional with our purchases, we may very well be supporting a company that does not align with our values.
When you purchase Fairmined gold, on the other hand, you know that you are supporting artisanal and small-scale miners.
These miners must also meet certain working standards, including no child labor, workers’ right to organize, and a safe working environment.
When you purchase Fairmined gold, you are helping to create a lasting impact on the jewelry industry (and on global economic development). Miners who meet the Fairmined standards receive a fair price for the gold they produce, along with an additional premium that allows them to invest in efforts including:
For every gram of Fairmined gold sold, these miners receive an additional premium of $4. And for Fairmined Ecological gold, that premium increases to $6 per gram.
By purchasing Fairmined gold, you are not just minimizing the negative impacts of your jewelry purchases, you are also investing in the welfare of entire communities, and in the jewelry and mining industries as a whole.
If you are interested in learning more about our commitment to sustainable, ethical, and responsible practices, please visit this page. And if you would like to browse our pieces made exclusively with Fairmined gold, you can find our online shop at this link.
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For David Nassi, the gemstone business isn’t just a career or an area of interest: It’s a family legacy.
“I started working with my father about 20 years ago. He started a colored gemstone business back in the 70s, when he moved here from India. I apprenticed as a lapidary for about two years,” David explained. “And after that full-time apprenticeship I moved more into buying and selling the stones and other aspects of the business. And then we just built our 100% Natural brand over the last 15 years or so.”
Keep reading to learn more about David and the beautiful, colored gemstones he works with.
Though David does work with select miners around the world, many of the gems that pass through 100% Natural Ltd. are antiques.
The business specifically specializes in natural and untreated stones, providing certificates from leading laboratories to verify their finest stones’ authenticity.
“A lot of the stones that we deal in are reclaimed or antique stones, and we’ll add value to them through the cutting process and through just optimizing their beauty through lapidary skills.”
David first became familiar with Thesis Gems through Instagram, and though it took several years before he had the opportunity to meet Cate in person last year, the two became fast friends.
“We met for the first time in real life in Tucson last year, and then we’ve just sort of built our friendship over that time. She had shown interest in my work and in the stones that I was dealing in, and it just kind of grew naturally from there.”
Along with their passion for working with beautiful stones, David and Cate share a love of dancing and music. They also both love nature, which shapes the way they approach buying and selling gems. Both 100% Natural Ltd. and Thesis Gems prioritize sustainability in the work they do and the gems they source.
Working with reclaimed and antique stones is naturally more sustainable than sourcing from large-scale, high-impact miners. After all, there’s nothing more sustainable than finding a new use for an old object.
“I don’t think there’s any aspect of the gem business that is 100% sustainable, because we’re dealing in a finite resource. But as much as a reclaimed or antique gem can be sustainable, it is,” David explained. “These stones [were] mined out of the ground several decades, if not centuries ago.”
And when David does deal in newly mined stones, he primarily works with small-scale, local miners who are mindful about the environmental impacts of their work.
“Most of them are artisanally mined through small producers in countries where farming is the main sort of commerce for those people who are mining the gems. So, a lot of these small-scale miners are as sustainable as they can be in their country with low-impact mining, and they focus on not really disturbing the ground too much.”
In the future, David hopes to build more relationships with larger mines that make sustainability a top priority.
To learn more about David and the beautiful stones he’s working with at 100% Natural Ltd., visit his website. And make sure to follow David on Instagram for more updates.
]]>‘Tis the season for gratitude, and this year, it feels like we have more than ever to be thankful for.
The past few years have taught us just how much of a privilege it is to get to spend time with the people we love, practicing the holiday traditions we cherish.
As we look back on 2022, here are a few of the things we’re most grateful for, and one event we’re especially looking forward to as we close out the year.
Events are always an exciting part of our business, but we appreciate them more than ever now that we know what it’s like to go without seeing each other in person.
That’s why we’re especially excited to invite you to a special jewelry show featuring Thesis Gems. Join us in San Francisco on Sunday, December 11th for a day of art and indulgence, including drinks and hors d'oeuvres.
We’ll be showing off collections and jewels from Andrea Capello, Vanessa Fernández, Poli Trading Co., Leen Heyne, Duffy Jewelry, Molly Findlay, and Esmeralda Gems. Plus, Rose Bunker will curate a special collection of vintage lingerie.
Appointments are coveted, so please email cate@thesisgems.com or call (510) 556-6443 if you’d like to attend. We can’t wait to celebrate the holiday season and the joy of great jewelry with you!
Now that we’re able to get together in person again, we also have an excellent excuse to bring out our best outfits and jewels to wear.
There’s no time like a holiday party for showing off your one-of-a-kind sense of style!
If you’re looking to add some extra sparkle to your favorite look, or you want to treat yourself at the end of the year, there’s still time to order a beautiful, ethically made piece from our online store (we typically ask that you allow one week plus shipping for in stock items).
While we personally believe that you can give gifts to your loved ones no matter the season, the holidays are a special opportunity to remind someone you love them with a festively wrapped package.
This year, consider giving the gift of high-quality, ethically made jewelry by purchasing a piece from Thesis Gems.
Not only are you sure to find something that impossible-to-shop-for person on your list will love, but you can take pride in knowing that your gift was made ethically and sustainably, by a business that also donates to organizations that are doing good around the world.
Everyone who’s involved with Thesis Gems is in this business because we love jewelry, and because we want to create a space where that love does not come at the expense of people or the planet.
We’re so grateful we get to do this work of making and selling beautiful things, and we know that none of it would be possible without our amazing customers.
More than anything this season (and every season), we’re grateful for each of you who makes this business possible.
Whether you’ve purchased jewelry from us before, are preparing to make your first purchase, or simply follow us on Instagram and read these blogs, we would not be here without your support.
Thank you for allowing us to live out our dreams and trusting us to create beautiful things that for you and your loved ones to cherish for generations.]]>For as long as humans have given gifts, jewels have been prized for both their beauty and for their symbolic significance.
We give each other jewelry to mark important occasions and sentiments — weddings, anniversaries, spiritual milestones, graduations — and we pass down our most loved pieces through generations.
To a stranger, a piece of jewelry may indicate the wearer’s style. But to the wearer, that same item can serve as a reminder of the people or places they love the most.
Jewelry confers meaning, and because of this, there is no better way to commemorate a new beginning or milestone.
Most of us inherently understand this significance when giving gifts to others or receiving gifts from the people we love. So why do we hesitate to show that same kindness to ourselves?
Whether you are started a new job, have achieved a personal goal, or are making a fresh start for yourself after a difficult experience, purchasing jewelry is a beautiful way to celebrate your progress with an act of self-care
Each time you look at the piece, you’ll be reminded of the joy you felt when you first saw it, as well as the experience that inspired you to purchase it.
Jewelry is also a lasting investment into the future. Precious gems and metals typically retain their value in a way that other luxuries like clothing and cars may not, and jewelry you purchase today is likely to increase in value over time.
Even during global economic downturns, the value of gems and high-quality gold has remained. In some countries, gold is still the most trusted form of currency.
When you purchase a beautiful, quality piece of jewelry, you’re telling yourself that you are worth investing in. And that message will carry on every time you wear the piece.
For far too long, people have bought and sold jewelry without regard for the impact those pieces have on the planet and on other people.
If we purchase jewelry to practice self-care, but we choose materials that were mined and crafted with unsustainable, unethical practices, then what message are we really sending to ourselves and to the world?
Something beautiful happens when you invest in jewels and precious metals that don’t harm the earth and are mined and made under safe and healthy working conditions. In doing so, you communicate to yourself and the people around you that we are all part of a larger story, and what benefits us doesn’t have to be at the expense of someone else.
At Thesis Gems and Jewelry, we believe wholeheartedly that people and the environment matter more than any one gem or piece of jewelry.
We do the hard work of finding sources that treat workers and the land responsibly, asking difficult questions and seeking hard evidence to make sure we’re purchasing the best quality of materials, without compromising on our values.
Additionally, we donate to organizations that are fighting for a cleaner, healthier, and more just planet.
Whether you are purchasing a piece from our online shop or ordering a custom design, you can trust that you’re not only avoiding harm, but also actively doing good.
What better way is there to celebrate a new beginning than by purchasing a beautiful, meaningful piece that also contributes to a brighter future?
]]>2021 presented a variety of challenges, but one thing we’re particularly proud of at Thesis are the relationships we forged and developed over the last year.
Here are some examples from this very blog:
None of us would have made it through 2021 without our friends and that goes double for Thesis Gems and Jewelry. Without the artists and suppliers, we’ve built our network around, we wouldn’t be where we are today.
One of the core values Thesis Gems and Jewelry was founded on was in finding a path forward for sustainability in the gemstone world. Gratefully, we’re starting to see more and more clients looking for the same thing themselves.
“There is more transparency than ever in the industry – where gems come from, how gold is mined, what is truly ethical,” says our founder, Cate Claus. “This pushes the industry in the correct direction, toward mining practices that prioritize the environment and the miners who deserve safety equipment, fair pay, and health care.”
What can change in a year? Who knows, but don’t expect the gemstone trade to be in the same place now that we are by the end of 2022.
“I see this evolving at a rapid pace, and I look forward to learning and growing with my colleagues and clients alike.”
“Most of my clients now are individuals who recognize the value of artistry and are dedicated to the practices of responsible jewelry and philanthropy. They are voting for these principles, so to speak, with their wallet.”
This isn’t just about Thesis, though. This is about the kind of jewelry people are looking for today.
As Cate says, “I think there is a growing appreciation for the investment of jewelry that has lasting value, which also can be enjoyed every day as an ornament to be worn. It then becomes more of a transfer of wealth than an expenditure.”
Still. We aren’t only here because we’re building something sustainable and responsible. We’re here because the standards we set for ourselves are impeccable.
“In order for jewelry to be an investment, the gems must have certain qualities: high-quality crystal and color, have character in their shape and cut, and minimally treated or ideally untreated. If the jewel itself is made well – by hand, using substantial gold and precious metal, the gem will be protected and the craftswoman/man ship becomes an additional investment in art.”
In 2022 we are ecstatic to be collaborating with a handful of master artisans: Leen Heyne from The Netherlands, New York designer Joseph Ramsay, Maia Merav Holtzman from Los Angeles, Andrea Capello from Switzerland, Duffy Jewelry from London and New York creative Molly Findlay.
At Thesis Gems and Jewelry, we have a lot to look forward to in 2022. Our relationships are crafted with the same care as our gems and produce the same sterling results. We’re coming into this year on our best foot, ready to show our clients why they can always trust us.
When we asked Cate what we can expect from Thesis Gems and Jewelry over the next twelve months, she didn’t hesitate.
“As Oscar Wilde said, ‘I have the simplest of tastes. I am always satisfied with the best.’”
]]>You will also view the exceptional gems from Poli Trading Company, Esmerelda Gems and B&B Fine Gems.
Our events give the opportunity to speak with and ask questions of Thesis Gems founder, Cate Claus, and Poli Trading Company founder, Randy Poli. We will be at your service in this low-pressure, by appointment-only setting.
Relax in a secure and Covid-safe environment, enjoying cocktails, champagne, and hors d'oeuvres while perusing a curated collection of finished Thesis jewels and fine antique jewelry. The nature of this event means you’ll be able to handle these precious objects in your own time.
This event will be the debut of our collaboration with Dutch goldsmith, Leen Heyne. In his studio in Tilburg, Leen creates unique pieces that unlock the natural forces embedded in the precious materials he uses, leaving the door open to interpretation and evoking the inherent rhythm of the metal.
The collaboration is represented by one-of-a-kind jewels made by Leen's hands, including a gorgeous ring with a 5.12 carat champagne diamond from Poli Trading Company.
In addition to the gems and jewelry from Thesis’ own collection, we’ll be making available the finest selection of traceable loose gems from some of our closest collaborators.
You’ll get an up-close and personal look at extraordinary diamonds, Colombian emeralds, and colored gemstones from Poli Trading Co., B&B Gems and Esmeralda Gems. Sapphires, spinel, garnets will be available for viewing, representing rare and exceptional quality.
As anyone who follows Thesis knows, our passion lies in crafting custom designs for one-of-a-kind pieces. These gems will be made available to create your dream statement piece.
If you have even a passing interest in gemstones, you cannot afford to miss these nights. Between the intimacy of the event, the quality of the gemstones, the access to your hosts’ expertise, and the opportunity to handle one-of-a-kind pieces, Gems and Cocktails will be a night you remember for years.
Get in touch with us today to confirm your private appointment. Call us at 510-556-6443 or email our founder personally at cate@thesisgems.com. With Thesis Gems, you can rest assured you are in the very best hands with an event you won’t soon forget.
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That’s Dave Bindra of B&B Find Gems talking about his current preferred shoe choice. It makes sense to start with kicks when talking to Dave Bindra. All it takes is one look at his Instagram at @Gemfluencer to see why.
Dave’s page is filled with videos that start the same way. A shot of his shoe of the day, followed by a matching colored gemstone, shining brilliantly. With over 17,000 followers, the style that drives B&B Fine Gems is on full display. “I love merging the worlds of fashion and music and gemstones.”
While certainly a means of personal expression, Dave’s Instagram isn’t only a casual artistic outlet. It’s a necessary tool to connect the full arc of a gem, from miner to lapidary to consumer.
“With Instagram, we’re able to showcase the collaborative efforts we have with designers like (Cate Claus, Founder of Thesis Gems). In many cases, a gem will move through our hands and we’ll never know what happens with it.
With someone like Cate, she’s taken the bull by the horns and said, ‘I’m sharing every part of my story and my ethos.’ It adds to the full transparency of how she operates and it’s rewarding for us to see what art can be created with the material we procure with so much pride.”
B&B Fine Gems is a family business, so the pursuit of fine gems is in his blood, but Dave credits the Gemological Institute of America with developing his inherent ability.
“I know people who have been successful without it, but I wouldn’t be where I am today without that foundation. The foundation it gives you as a gemologist is tremendous. The personal network you create at the institute has incalculable value. It solidified my passion in the industry. I saw so many things I had never seen before.”
Not only was his time there eye-opening as an artisan, but it established a tone for how he wanted to be led by his ethics in this market.
“Being involved to the degree I am has made me realize how important it is as stewards of the industry to protect the consumer. It’s a reminder of how privileged we are to be in the space and handle what we handle. There are beautiful stories to be told. But they need to be told in a responsible tone.”
“Sustainability is easy to throw around. It’s like the term organic. It's not just a story about sustainability. It’s a story of responsibility.”
Dave and the team at B&B Fine Gems look at the totality of the effect they have on the ecosystems they are a part of, not merely ecologically, but financially. A key focus of theirs has been to double down on the traceability of their gems.
“We source gemstones from mining localities from all over the globe. There are aspects of the colored gemstone market that are inherently chaotic. A miner who pulls piece of rough out of the ground in Tanzania may not have the means to sell it, so they may have to travel to Bangkok, and that person may send the gemstone to be cut elsewhere. It’s a process that supports many individual livelihoods.”
Traceability isn’t just a buzzword, though. When customers are walking away with a piece of fine jewelry, they want to know it’s an item they can be proud of. The team at B&B Fine Gems always has that in mind.
“Traceability is important ethically, for instance. You wouldn’t want a gem from a regime that is oppressive to their people or a specific mining locality where the conditions are less than favorable. On the other hand, traceability tells a story and there’s a romance and a beauty to that. It’s a renaissance time for colored gemstones. People are falling back in love with what makes these items so unique; the stories and the communities that come along with them. That story is just as important as the gemstone itself.”
Finding the right partner to help make you work shine is invaluable. Dave Bindra knows that, particularly when it comes to his work with Thesis Gems.
“Cate is a composer who understands how each section of the orchestra works together to create a symphony. She’s so sensitive to the needs of a gemstone specialist.”
As with most artistic endeavors, skill is great, but the relationships you build are what keep you going. When asked what he cares about most in the his career, his answer was simple:
“I am one piece in an entire ecosystem of the individuals we work with. The greatest value we see is not in our collection of rare and beautiful gemstones, but in the human network we’ve developed over a long period of time. Our relationships with miners in different parts of the world, our lapidary and master cutters, the peers in our space or our clients, that network are crucial to the foundation and the value of B&B. That’s all I care about, personally.”
Make sure to find out more about Dave Bindra and the gems he procures for B&B Fine Gems from his Instagram.
]]>“I came to Hawaii to go to college. I wanted to study business in an international environment. My location has a strategic advantage with timezones. I can speak to the East Coast and to Japan without being up all night. I also love the ocean and it has the best surf in the world. You could say it was on my radar for a few reasons.”
It’s not merely the natural beauty of the surf off Oahu that drives Glenn, but also the natural beauty of the gemstones he cuts, and Thesis Gems is honored to enjoy them.
Keep reading to find out more about Glenn Preus, Ltd. and how he carved out a niche in the gemstone industry that few people occupy – as a dealer and a cutter.
It wasn’t all surf and sand for Glenn.
“I spent three years in Manhattan with Harry Winston. I started there sorting gemstones for their designers. That’s where my eye got trained. I became the youngest full commissioned salesperson in their New York salon. It provided me with a complete fundamental education.”
It was during his time in New York that a new interest began to gather steam for Glenn.
“I would spend all my break time with the diamond cutters, watching them and seeing the decisions they were making. It lit a fire in me for the cutting process.”
Even still… his transition into cutting wasn’t immediate. It was borne out of competitive necessity.
“I didn’t start cutting gemstones until the early 2000’s. I needed something to give me an edge over every other dealer. I had to build a better mousetrap. So, I immersed myself. Completely self-taught, literally nose to the grindstone. Fortunately, with all those years of training, my eye and experience gave me an interesting perspective.”
The relationship between the Earth that provides the gems and the people who work and wear them is central to Glenn’s business. “I’m dealing only in natural color. Out of the ground. Unenhanced. The color looks the way it is. That’s 2% of the market.
What I like about my niche is that’s an even smaller footprint. It allows me to make sure these artisans, either downstream with miners and rough dealers, or upstream with designers like Cate at Thesis Gems, are all valued properly. Sustainability has become a buzzword, but I’m proud to be in a corner of the industry that really walks the walk.”
With a five-year partnership, Thesis Gems and Glenn Preus are perfectly paired.
“Cate is a fantastic designer with a great eye for detail. Our aesthetics matched the moment we found each other. The proof is in the pudding.” How could the partnership be more well matched? Easy. It couldn’t. “My taste is her taste.”
Find out more about Glenn Preus, Ltd. on Instagram.
]]>As Randy Poli, founder of Poli Trading Company says, “For Thesis, I think I provide an eye for unusual gems that possess a specific type of charm that can only be unlocked by the creative mind of a designer. Cate is enthusiastic about gems and brings a positive mindset that is infectious and genuine.”
Keep reading to find out more about Poli Trading Company and how they find such unique treasures.
Poli Trading Company was founded in 2005 as a wholesale diamond firm, providing service to the trade, but their taste is what makes them stand out.
“I like to think that my client's have an appreciation for the artistry and craft of diamond cutting - even if they did not know they did before finding me.”
Their evolution from their wholesale beginnings can be traced directly back to their passion for special gems. Poli Trading Company’s curated collection of uniquities stand out among a crowd. From funky cuts to creative modern takes to gorgeous antiques, Randy’s eye spans all generations.
“I think our typical client is someone that is looking for something bold. I find that people often say ‘I've never seen anything like that,’ quite often when they look through the collection.”
Twenty years of experience in one of the largest jewelry districts in America gives you a taste for what will make a customer gasp.
Randy is not alone in his excitement, but part of what make our relationship with Poli Trading Company so special is his company’s tireless effort to source antique and vintage gems, in all shapes and sizes, to provide to the community with a truly sustainable and creative option.
“I sometimes tell people that my favorite piece is the next one that I acquire. There is a certain energy that kicks in when you purchase something new and unusual. I have a few stones in the pipeline that I am very excited to get in my hands.
My current favorite stone on our Instagram feed is a stone that Thesis just sold for me. It was a 6ct Antique Old Mine Brilliant cut diamond of exceptional color and clarity - a true rarity given the stone's age and the scarcity of stones with such high quality from that era.”
As we continue on our mission of transparency, authenticity, and sustainability in all aspects of the trade, partnering with companies like Poli becomes crucial to providing the end user with fine jewelry they believe in.
“I am excited about the continued advances in transparency that are taking place within modern diamond manufacturing. We can now track stones from rough to polished to get a better sense of where our stones are being mined, cut and polished and customers can make their own choices accordingly.”
But we can’t wait for changes made in the diamond trade. We have to do what we can on the ground, and Poli Trading Company is doing their part by consistently promoting reclaimed and antique gems as the most complete ethically sourced method to purchase gems. These rare gems aren’t merely good for the planet. They’re compelling and curious.
“The bold and unusual intersects with the stone being vintage, on some occasions. Those tend to be my favorite stones to acquire and sell. It’s rewarding when a stone like that goes to a collector who truly understands the inherent value of such a rare item.”
Finding a partner like Poli Trading Company that is dedicated to the principles of hard work and serving their client’s needs, while still operating with sound ethics and brilliant products is one in a million.
As Randy says, “To put it simply, Poli Trading Company and Thesis Gems are both committed to helping each other achieve mutual growth and aligning our interests even further going forward.”
He took the words right out of our mouth. Find out more about Poli Trading Company on their website and be sure to follow them on Instagram to stay up to date on their curated collection of uniquities.
]]>You may have noticed Esmeralda’s breathtaking emeralds in emerald cuts and pear shapes among our loose stones and original designs. But do you know the three generations of emerald experts behind the small company or how they have curated an unparalleled selection and achieved an international reputation for excellence?
Read on to learn more about Esmeralda Gems and how they inspire the artisans at Thesis with exquisite, responsibly sourced, colored stones.
Gabriel Acuña founded Esmeralda in 1990, but its roots go deeper than that. Gabriel was raised in a village near Bogota, Colombia, and his father was in the emerald trade. Growing up, he absorbed much of his father’s extensive knowledge and, even more valuable, his father introduced him to the mines and miners he knew so well.
Gabriel did more than follow in his father’s footsteps — he went on to earn a Graduate Gemologist (GG) degree from the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). After moving to California, he grew Esmeralda from his personal contacts, creating a vertically integrated supply chain from sourcing rough emerald crystals to sorting, grading, and cutting them for sale.
Today, Gabriel’s son, Philip Acuña, has taken an increasingly active role in the company and is working alongside him to carry on the legacy of vast knowledge and passion for Colombian emeralds.
Esmeralda sources directly from mines in Colombia, focusing on regions that they know to produce the highest quality rough. And it is this close connection to their sources and understanding of the industry that gives me confidence in their product.
“In Colombia, it’s still an informal industry in many ways, with stones coming from unregistered, artisanal mines,” says Philip. “But they’ve become more diligent with standards, practices, and regulation of established mining companies.” Esmeralda sources primarily from established mines and. Their emeralds are fully traceable.
“Even in an imperfect industry,” Philip explains, “more and more people are talking about sustainability and consumers are becoming conscious. And that’s creating a trickle-up effect, from the customer to the wholesaler to the miners, where everyone is starting to realize this is important.”
Gabriel and Philip carefully hand-select their collection with exacting attention to quality. A large part of their success as a small company is due to their very strict standards, which attract buyers from Los Angeles to Hong Kong. They look at the color and clarity of each stone to find the most vivid and radiant material. They place particular emphasis on the cutting, working with masterful lapidaries to maximize brilliance and create beautifully faceted shapes. Each aspect of their business is meticulously considered.
The way in which their emeralds are treated- or not treated- is of particular importance to Esmeralda. For example, some emeralds are injected with plastic polymer resin to conceal flaws. Esmeralda, however, selects only emeralds that are inherently so exceptional that they need no treatment or only require traditional cedarwood oil, the least invasive, and only acceptable method to Esmeralda to fill internal fractures. By prioritizing no and low-treatment emeralds, they ensure that the best stones will reach their customers.
A Brilliant Collaboration
I was first drawn to Esmeralda by their commitment to quality, which is evident in the striking color, crystal, clarity, and cut of their stones. However, it was their dedication to transparent sourcing and long-standing personal relationships with miners that drew me to a collaboration.
“Cate is very meticulous with quality as well,” says Philip. “From the beginning, we aligned very well in terms of our standards and what stones appeal to us.” This shared understanding naturally evolved into a unique, more personal collaboration than is typical for a wholesaler. Philip will share his excitement for particular gems he has acquired, sparking creative design concepts that result in beautiful, finished jewelry. From Esmeralda’s collection, we have curated a small suite of incredibly unique emeralds. Another key to our collaboration is a shared interest in philanthropy.
Recently, Philip’s interests have expanded beyond emeralds to include exceptional tourmalines, spinel, sapphires, and other colored stones. This is sure to lead to even more awe-inspiring designs by Thesis artisans and clients.
Reach out today to ask us about the Esmeralda emeralds in our collection. You may even be inspired to create your own custom design jewelry or attend one of their Gem and Cocktail events (the next one in May 2021, please reach out to cate@thesisgems.com for more information).
]]>This year will be all about peering past the gleam and sparkle (though we love those things, too!) to see where gemstones and precious metals come from. It will be about connecting to the hands and hearts behind each emerald or sapphire, and shining a light on labor conditions, mining practices, and the path to social and environmental responsibility.
(Colombian emerald from the Muzo mines.)
In the past year I saw a growing appreciation for how jewelry is made and where the materials come from. Our clients want to know exactly where their gemstone came from, how it was mined and treated, and who made their finished design. Are the emerald miners treated fairly? Is gold mining spreading toxic waste? Was the piece hand forged or made with hand-carved wax casting? These are just some of the questions shaping jewelry buyers’ decisions.
In 2021, I look forward to continued collaborations with thoughtful clients who measure the quality of gold and diamonds in more than just carats. Jewelry lovers will place greater value on traceability and the story behind their purchases, asking about the miners, metalsmiths, lapidaries, and myself included. In my experience, these stories often hold deep significance to a client and help to humanize their investment.
Holding the Industry Accountable
Too often still, looking at the origins of a piece of jewelry reveals environmental destruction, poverty, and harsh working conditions. As traceability becomes increasingly important, so will ethical and sustainable industry standards. Traceability is the first step.
People want to see companies and retailers take efforts toward social and ecological responsibility. More and more, consumers are asking hard questions and expecting hard evidence that their gemstones and jewelry are contributing to a more just world. For example, I am frequently asked about how we source our gold, and I am always proud to say that we use only Fairmined and recycled gold in our designs.
Not only will 2021 continue to fuel the movement toward greater ecological responsibility, but it will also lead us to discover deeper meaning in each piece of jewelry. When we are able to look past the surface to see the full story of each opal or pearl, then every ring or bracelet becomes a symbol of our interconnectedness.
In the coming year, I expect meaning to be at the forefront of my clients’ minds. I anticipate even more passion for the rich geologic and human histories contained in every gemstone, and more desire to be a co-creator in the design process. And regardless of whether they select one of our unique finished pieces or create their own custom design, these future clients will find great meaning in knowing their investment has a far-reaching impact.
We didn’t commit to responsible treatment of workers and the land because it was on trend. Thesis was founded on these very ideals with a vision to make traceable, quality jewelry accessible and help transform our industry in the process. And we know there is still much to be learned, which is why we continue donating a percentage of our profits to environmental and human rights organizations worldwide (we donated to over 10 different non-profit charitable organizations this past year).
This year, we can’t wait to create more lasting works of art from thoughtfully sourced materials. If you want to invest in a more humane and sustainable planet in the new year, take a look at our latest designs or reach out to start a conversation.
]]>Giving a friend, family member, or paramour a piece of jewelry is an intimate gesture that expresses deep and steadfast love. They will wear this heirloom of lasting value on their body, or keep it with their most precious belongings, and think of you each time they see it. Even if you have no experience with jewels, read on to learn how we can help you create a truly one of a kind gift this holiday season.
A sublime gift is creating a custom design for your loved one. Start by thinking about this individual and your affection for them. What’s distinctive about their personality? What stands out about their tastes, style, and how they express themselves? What special memories do you share? Write it down.
Then browse our website, Instagram, antique shops — whatever sources of inspiration you like best. Some people like to save images to Pinterest or use magazine cutouts to collage a mood board. But one idea is all you need to get started. It could be as vague as a color or an emotion you want to convey, or as specific as a pendant design you’ve sketched or a ring that’s been passed down in your family.
Don’t worry if you can’t find inspiration, however. Collaboration is a journey and we will nurture the ideas that you have.
(Sundial Tsavorite Stud Earrings with Diamond Micropavé)
When you’re ready, reach out to us at Thesis to start a conversation. We will talk through your ideas, inspirations, questions, and more without pressure or expectation. And if you decide to commit, we’ll lead you step by step through a fun, stimulating, and deeply gratifying design process.
Choosing the gemstones is often an excellent place to start. Looking at magical emeralds, glittering tsavorites, fluorescent opals, or gleaming pearls is a true pleasure. People often find that they know the right jewel when they see it; they feel an unmistakable thrill and connection to the stone.
(Thesis Jewels - Modeled by Michella Cruz)
The stone you choose commonly inspires the rest of the design. For example, you might decide that a beautifully-cut loose emerald is best displayed alone, or enhanced by small diamond side stones. Each choice you make, from the type of metal, to the shape and layout, offers new interest and excitement. Whether you repurpose antique diamonds for a timeless pair of cufflinks, or create a boldly modern set of earrings, you will fall in love with the creative process and with watching the finished design take shape.
The joy of giving is one reason Thesis Gems exists. I wanted to give back to the people and places that produce the gems and jewelry I adore, so I started Thesis to help support miners and artisans and restore mining environments.
We donate to organizations fighting to conserve and defend our planet, including The Sierra Club, WIRES Wildlife Rescue, Partners in Health, Doctors Without Borders, No Kid Hungry, Better Without Mercury, Mercury Free Mining, Navajo Nation Health, and others. Knowing that the impact of your gift ripples out to people across the world makes it that much more meaningful to you and your loved one.
To learn more or begin creating your own custom design, contact me today and tell me about the lucky someone you'd like to dazzle this year.
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Jennifer Zimring and I connect over more than gems and precious metals. We’re both raising kids in the Bay Area, have backgrounds in medicine, and care deeply about the origins, quality, and ethics of our jewelry. Yet we were brought together by a particularly beautiful loose garnet.
Jen saw a photo of a garnet we posted to Instagram and reached out. Little did I know that first interaction would launch some thrilling collaborations and a friendship founded on a shared love of materials and design. Jen’s thoughtful eye and creativity make her an ideal design partner, and a great source of inspiration for others thinking about custom projects of their own.
For Jen, there is more to jewelry than beauty and sparkle. “I have a huge love of the materials and process,” she explains. Jen collected rocks and minerals in her youth, and fell in love with the colors, textures, and stories they offered. In high school, she stumbled upon a trove of southwest Native American jewelry at a local store and started saving her money for turquoise rings rather than more typical teenage interests. “That was a complete obsession of mine,” says Jen, who adores turquoise to this day.
Years later, into her career as a physician assistant, Jen was able to more fully pursue her passion for gems and jewelry. “It started with my engagement ring. It sparked something in me and brought me to a community of diamond and jewelry-obsessed people.” Jen delved into the different periods and cuts of antique diamonds and became a collector. Working with jewelers and designers on bespoke pieces was a natural next step.
(Swivel and Drop Reversible Earrings with tsavorite and antique rose nouveau diamonds)
“I’ve worked with a lot of different jewelers and made custom pieces with other designers. Cate is my favorite to work with,” says Jen. “There is an ease and mutual respect that is really special. And even though I know it’s going to be amazing, I’m always awed by the final piece”
The process typically starts with a loose or repurposed stone that captivates Jen, either from her collection or my own. Then we share ideas, pore over photos for inspiration, and collaborate on all aspects from materials to layout. “The raw materials inspire me most,” she explains. “And there’s usually a nod to antique jewelry in the design.” For example, Jen bought an old european cut diamond and we added side stones to make a three stone ring. Among many custom pieces, we have also created a moonstone signet ring and, most recently, a lariat necklace based on a shield emerald and another old European cut diamond.
In one of our most memorable collaborations, Jen wanted to repurpose the diamonds from her original engagement ring. “I already knew I wanted a gold crescent moon pendant,” she says. “Cate suggested adding smaller diamonds to complete the design, and the goldsmith collaborated in the layout as well. Her goldsmith is incredibly talented; I call the two of them the dream team.”
In an oversaturated industry, Jen says Thesis stood out because we showed “a real love of the quality and origin of each gem.” Jen and I both believe that jewelry buyers should consider how their spending impacts others and the environment. As she puts it, each purchase “is an ethical and political commitment.”
Jen not only cares about using fairmined and eco-friendly sources, she also cares about the artisans and designers involved in the final creation of each piece. “It’s much more exciting and gratifying to buy from someone small,” says Jen. “It’s just Cate and her goldsmith — and I love that. Like me, they have a love affair with the whole process, not just the finished piece.”
(Wave collection ring designed by Thesis, a 1st place winner in the 2018 INSTORE Design Awards.)
In the midst of her hectic days, Jen finds moments of calm and beauty in her collection of loose stones and finished pieces. “It’s sometimes my reset button from kids and life,” she says. “To sneak away and look at them can be very calming. We call them little talismans.”
Do you share Jen’s passion for jewelry? At Thesis, we are conscientious about every aspect of jewelry design, from sourcing to fabrication. If you’re curious about creating your own custom design, don’t hesitate to reach out and tell me what inspires you.
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Our efforts involve a collaboration among many. The making of an emerald ring or gold bracelet involves miners, lapidaries, goldsmiths, designers, and consumers. The production of each piece of jewelry affects ecosystems and communities across the globe — especially the most vulnerable.
Our purpose is not simply to sell jewelry. It is to help transform the industry from one marred by exploitation and ecological destruction, to one that helps people and the planet thrive. That’s why Thesis partners with and invests in organizations that are working to make our supply chains more resilient, protect those that labor to bring our gems to market, and restore and minimize impacts to the environment.
Get to know some of the key organizations Thesis gives back to, thanks to the support of customers who share our passion.
(Ethically-mined Australian opal)
WIRES is Australia's largest wildlife rescue organization, actively rehabilitating and preserving wildlife for over 30 years. Their large network of volunteers assists tens of thousands of native animals each year. Since Australia is one of the world's biggest producers of diamonds, opals, sapphire, ruby, emerald, garnet, topaz, and more, donating to WIRES is a great investment in protecting the country’s incredible natural resources.
Learn more about WIRES and give.
Partners in Health works across the globe to build capacity and strengthen health systems in settings of poverty. From Rwanda to Peru, Partners in Health is helping to prevent and treat cholera, chronic disease, HIV/AIDs, and importantly COVID 19, improving community health in areas often impacted by destructive mining practices.
Learn more about Partners in Health and give.
The NAACP is the largest civil rights organization in America, working to secure the political, educational, social, and economic equality of rights and eliminate race-based discrimination. Worldwide, people of color are disproportionately affected by our industry’s unethical labor and environmental practices, and contributing to the NAACP is one way we can address this inequality.
Learn more about the NAACP and give.
The Sierra Club is a grassroots environmental organization fighting to protect the earth’s natural resources and prevent catastrophic climate crisis. Among many initiatives, they work to address problems created by harmful mining techniques and reform laws to protect watersheds and wildlife surrounding mines.
Learn more about the Sierra Club and give.
UCSF Medical Center provides highly specialized and innovative medical care and drives advancements in treatment and technology. As a practicing pediatrician in the Bay Area, this cause is close to my heart, and I know their preeminent work benefits patients everywhere.
Learn more about UCSF Medical Center and give.
Doctors Without Borders is an international humanitarian medical NGO that combats malaria, malnutrition, measles, gender-based violence, and much more in over 70 countries. They focus on conflict zones and countries affected by endemic diseases, working to respond to health crises while building up local healthcare systems.
Learn more about Doctors Without Borders and give.
The Museo de Oro, or Gold Museum, in Bogotá houses and preserves the world's largest collection of pre-Columbian gold relics. The 34,000 gold artifacts in their collection represent the various indigenous cultures that inhabited Colombia before colonization. Their work helps to strengthen and preserve Colombia’s rich cultural identity.
Learn more about Museo de Oro and give.
By giving back to each of these organizations, Thesis Gems and Jewelry is helping to redress the damage done by centuries of harmful mining and labor practices. We believe it is our moral and ethical obligation to give back, especially in the luxury marketplace. Combined with our commitment to obtaining gems and precious metals from only the most ethical sources available, we can proudly say that we place people and the environment above any gemstone.
When you invest in our one-of-a-kind pieces — or design your own — you are also investing in a better world for all. Get in touch today to learn more.
]]>Humanity has been captivated by the emerald’s rare and beguiling shades of green - a magical, almost indescribable experience that has been a subject of poetry throughout the ages, going back to the ancient Roman time of Pliny the Elder (died 79 CE) “Indeed there is no stone, the color of which is more delightful to the eye, for whereas the sight fixes itself with avidity upon the green grass and the foliage of the trees, we have all the more pleasure in looking upon the smaragdus (emerald), there being no green in existence of a more intense color than this.”
The magnetism of emeralds is clear, and I have been fortunate to learn how they are mined. Having visited the Chivor emerald mines in Colombia myself, I have seen the presence of ancient mines, as well as an artisanal one.
There are also more mechanized modern mines in operation, and the precedence for mining is generally well established. This transparency is the foundation for an ethical provenance. Emeralds are found in the depths of the Andes mountains, and tunnels lay bare the emerald material. Water, dynamite and manual labor are used to flush out the rock.
Emeralds are mined the world over, most commonly in Colombia, Zambia, Zimbabwe, and Brazil, though of interest there are also small emeralds pockets in North America.
Colombian emeralds comprise up to 90% of the world’s emerald market. And most of these come from three Colombian mining areas in particular: Muzo, Chivor, and Coscuez, all in the Andes Mountains.
The history of the Colombian emerald is a bit of a tortured one. The indigenous Muzo people of Colombia mined emeralds as far back as 300 AD, until Spanish conquistadors took control and forced them into slave labor in the 15th and 16th centuries. Colonization decimated the native populations, and emerald production all but ceased until Colombia gained its independence in 1819.
After independence, when government and private companies slowly resumed mining, labor conditions were brutal and extraction methods were dangerous and destructive, all ruled by corrupt systems. In the last 20 or so years, this has evolved considerably when the ownership of the mines changed (a fascinating history in and of itself).
The mining of any gem is a costly and inherently unsustainable proposition. I appreciate Colombian emeralds as the system and protocols for mining emeralds is done in both a modern and more artisanal or traditional way, each with their own advantages.
The government regulates that miners work in safe and humane conditions that exceed national labor standards, often receiving health insurance and two times the country’s minimum wage. As tunnels are mostly established, they use less invasive mining practices without toxic chemicals, and it has been reported to me that the government works to restore mining regions through community-led environmental efforts.
For the first time in hundreds of years, consumers have the opportunity to own emeralds of superior quality and improved ethics.
It is important to understand the quality of an emerald. Like all gemstones, emeralds are graded on the 4 Cs: Color, Clarity, Cut, and Carat. But we assess these characteristics in emeralds somewhat differently than, say, diamonds or rubies.
Emeralds are arguably about color more than anything else. A vivid green to bluish green is most desirable. Look for a tone that is not too dark, with evenly distributed color and rich saturation. However, there is material that is light and lustrous which captivates my attention as well- ultimately this is subjective to the client and our individual personal tastes. Do not be afraid to trust your instincts and desires.
Clarity refers to an emerald’s brilliance, or how well it reflects light. Ideal emerald brilliance is satiny and soft, relatively clear, appearing to glow. Clarity also refers to the presence of inclusions, or visible particles or fractures inside the gemstone. It’s exceedingly rare for an emerald to have zero inclusions. Minor visible inclusions are actually accepted in high-quality emeralds, as long as they don’t reduce clarity.
The correct inclusions, which give the gem character without threatening integrity can add interest and value. Gota de aceite or “drop of oil” is used to describe a very rare and exceptionally valuable optical phenomenon that presents as whiskey in water, a butterfly's wing, or honey. Emerald inclusions can be described as “jardin,” French for garden, as the inclusions can have a mossy or garden like appearance.
Most emeralds are treated with traditional cedar oil or a synthetic oil. The oil will fill some inclusions and improve the clarity of an emerald. Treatment with oil is reversible. Oil is generally stable, but if oil leaks out of the stone over time, or the stone is exposed to a solvent such as alcohol or acetone, the stone can be retreated.
No treatment for an emerald is generally most desirable, and this is designated by a notable laboratory certification. Such emeralds are quite rare, and a small amount of treatment, designated “insignificant” or “minor” oil, or even ‘moderate’ is acceptable if the specimen is otherwise desirable. Emerald specimens with significant oil treatment or treatment with permanent glues or resins are not sourced by Thesis.
Emeralds are challenging to cut because they are more brittle than other gems and commonly have fissures. Plus, the cut greatly impacts tone and saturation. Look for an attractive cut that maximizes the stone’s color and that appeals to you. Traditional emerald cuts, the emerald being this styles namesake, are most popular. I obtain pleasure from all cuts and styles of emeralds, as well as unfaceted cabochon cuts.
Higher carat weight doesn’t automatically equal more value. Of course, this is often the case, but only when combined with high-quality color, clarity, and cut. Rather than focusing on an emerald’s carat weight, look for gorgeous color and brilliance, and a cut and size that displays beautifully in its setting.
Choose an heirloom-quality emerald from a prized source in the world. Whether you fall in love with one of our existing designs, or design your own, Thesis offers full transparency from the mines to the finished piece.
Reach out today to learn how you can invest in an emerald you will be proud to wear and pass down for generations to come.
]]>Without careful regulation and fair trade policies, gold mining practices are disastrous for people and the environment. Find out how you can support grassroots movements to make gold mining safer and cleaner for mine workers and their communities for generations to come.
Not only does gold mining blast through tons of rock, transforming landscapes and habitats, it also pollutes water and soil and exposes workers to poisonous chemicals. Both large industrial mines and unregulated small-scale mines have poor safety standards and contaminate people and the environment with devastating effects.
Mining is the number one contributor to mercury contamination worldwide. When mercury is used to refine gold, it’s not uncommon for miners to mix this neurotoxin with their bare hands and the excess is dumped on the ground or into the river, and the contamination spreads. Gold mines also dump hundreds of thousands of tons of cyanide and other toxic heavy metals each year. And when this reaches waterways, it spreads for hundreds of miles.
The workers at Gualconda mine in Colombia dreamed of a better, cleaner future for their community. They fought for ten years to stop using mercury at their mine and won, eliminating the use of mercury to process gold ore in 2017. Now they are focused on remediating the 400 tons of mercury contamination left behind in their land.
Better Without Mercury is a fundraising campaign to support a mercury cleanup project at Gualconda. The miners association, called La Fortaleza, is Fairmined certified and deeply committed to environmental responsibility and humane labor practices.
At Thesis, we’re proud to champion the work of La Fortaleza because it is an excellent model for an industry that must take steps now to protect workers and their communities, as well as the environment.
As part of our commitment to social and environmental responsibility, Thesis only uses gold that has been recycled or sourced from Fairmined mines like La Fortaleza. Both options give you peace of mind that your jewelry purchase did not contribute to destructive mining practices.
Whether you’re investing in your first piece of jewelry or you’re a seasoned collector, you have the power to make a valuable impact on the mining industry and the lives of gold miners globally. Support ethical and sustainable small-scale mining by purchasing recycled or Fairmined gold from a trustworthy source.
If you would like to own a piece of artisanal gold jewelry with traceable sources, reach out today.
We’d love to help you find or custom design a statement piece for you and your loved ones to treasure.
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The risks of the jewelry trade are no longer a secret. In light of regular reports of severe human rights and environmental concerns across jewelry materials supply chains, how can an independent designer wade through the complex web of concerns, lack of information, and misinformation to ensure that the materials purchased are not complicit in such risks? Is it possible for an independent designer to produce jewelry that can actually benefit others? If so - what does it take? Since the inception of her business in 2017, designer Cate Claus of Thesis Gems strove to create beautifully made, responsible jewelry that benefits everyone along the supply chain fairly and protects the environment.
Always interested in environmentalism, and as a primary care pediatrician- Cate recognized many of the risks within jewelry supply chains and designed her business with intention. Employing a discerning approach, Cate tried to operate like a detective and sought out educational opportunities and lectures, researched documents and sources, visited mines, spoke with industry colleagues, and learned as much as she could about her potential suppliers.
“In the beginning it was all about asking questions. In the year or so before I started Thesis Gems & Jewelry, I went to a GIA alumni lecture in San Francisco in which Bruce Bridges was invited to speak. He laid bare the complex and heart wrenching story of his company - Bridges Tsavorites. Here was a mine-to-market, fully vertically integrated business with the utmost transparency.”
Beyond “wanting to do the right thing”, hearing the personal tale of Bridges Tsavorite put into perspective for Cate that responsible sourcing is a fundamental must for supporting human rights, and ultimately providing developmental benefits within jewelry supply chains.
As the industry currently lacks consensus on how we define “responsible” and with few and fragmented resources available, Cate utilized her scientific background to identify suppliers she could trust. “I have a background in science and enjoy the Socratic method. Research involves asking questions- in this case calling sources directly, inquiring about mining origin, mining conditions, how the gems are cut, and then brought to market.
After two years, I had about 7 sources for my nascent brand: Bridges Tsavorites, Hopkins Opals, Sea of Cortez Pearls, Gemfields rubies, Perpetuum Jewels, Poli Trading Company Jewels and IEEX Emeralds. My understanding of each would deepen with time and experience.”
In exploring a new design featuring the highly desirable “pigeon’s blood” color ruby, Cate discovered Gemfields, a self-described “leading supplier of responsibly sourced colored gemstones.” After being featured in the New York Times and the Guardian, Cate researched Gemfields’ website and was grateful to discover a company offering transparency to the public regarding safe mining practices and consideration for environmental impact.
“...At the time there was quite a bit of information regarding provenance of their gems (rubies and emeralds and amethysts), labor standards, and environmental sustainability,” Cate shared. Shortly after, Cate called Gemfields’ New York office to hear directly from the company about how its practices support social and environmental wellbeing.
Months after Cate had purchased a matching pair of rubies from the company, she caught rumors of potential human rights concerns with Gemfields mines during the 2018 Chicago Responsible Jewelry Conference. It was not long until it became widespread knowledge that Gemfields faced a lawsuit for human rights abuses at their Montepuez mine in Mozambique - the source of Cate’s rubies. The Montepuez mine, 75% of which is owned by Gemfields, is considered to be the world’s most significant ruby deposit. The firm representing 273 Mozambicans in the lawsuit argued that security forces employed by Gemfields had shot, beaten, and subjected its clients to humiliating treatment and sexual abuse. The lawsuit resulted in a $7.4m “no admission of liability” settlement in January 2019. Grappling with the sense she had unintentionally supported such grave impacts, Cate had to reconsider her approach to sourcing, “I was embarrassed, I felt silly and that I had let myself and my customers down by not knowing truly what I was getting into. If a company claimed that it was “ethical” - I really wanted to know what that truly represented.”
Cate used this experience to re-affirm her commitment to having a responsible jewelry business. “I want to take full ownership myself in examining the ways in which I can do better. I have committed to visiting mine sites. I have hired an ethical jewelry consultant. I am not shy or uncomfortable like I was at times in asking questions.” In addition to strengthening the business’ supplier evaluation approach, Cate used the rubies she had purchased to create matching signet rings, donating 100% of the proceeds to Better Without Mercury- an initiative dedicated to mercury remediation and restoration at an artisanal gold mine site in Colombia.
In observing how each sector of the jewelry industry can take accountability for its role in social and environmental risks, designers have the potential to create greater demand for responsibly-sourced materials through their purchasing power. That is - if they can get at the truth of their suppliers’ impacts. While the jewelry industry is rife with problems, two of the most pressing are the lack of transparency and greenwashing. Unlike any other industry, the risks in the jewelry sector thrive in opacity. Worse, as the consumers of the materials are increasingly seeking responsible sources, greenwashing and misinformation entrench us in these issues further and prevent the industry from actually addressing risks.
An emerging group of responsible jewelry consultancies are regularly working with jewelry businesses to develop and implement responsible supply chain practices that emphasize supplier due diligence in an attempt to demonstrate demand for greater oversight and transparency. While this is a worthwhile practice that should continue to evolve, it is also essential that this oversight be continually pushed upstream. Cate’s experience, identification of her role, and commitment to leveraging her business for better is welcomed action on behalf of designers. It also begs the question, how has Gemfields taken responsibility for the risks within its supply chain?
Supplemental to the settlement payment in 2019, Gemfields stated they would set up an independent operational grievance mechanism, as well as a new agricultural and development training fund. The company’s Interim Report 2019 suggests they have moved forward with these plans, engaging a third-party specialist to assist with the design and implementation of a grievance mechanism. While a fund has been created for a “long-term sustainable livelihood program” intended to “sit alongside Gemfields’ existing direct investment in, and establishment of, collaborative community projects in the area,” the company has also made changes to its security practices at the mine. The Montepuez Concession is now using aerial surveillance and looking at “goal-oriented” security actions, the focus of which is to “contain and restrict the movement of artisanal miners.”
The jewelry industry has long relied on exploited labor and unsustainable practices, often squeezing the margin at the cost of human life. Even in 2020, it is far from being an industry that provides consistent opportunities for work with dignity, economic development, and social wellbeing for the millions of vulnerable people in its supply chains.
In 2018, both Human Rights Watch and the Investor Alliance for Human Rights published calls to action for the jewelry industry. Citing continued reports of brutal mining conditions, child labor, forced displacement of indigenous groups, enrichment of violent armed groups, and toxic pollution tied to mining impacting the health of whole communities - both calls to action centered on urging the jewelry industry to not only implement robust human rights due diligence practices, but to also publicly report on these practices on an annual basis. Beyond a moral imperative to do better, the Investors Alliance for Human Rights noted, “As fiduciaries, we view it as our responsibility to conduct human rights due diligence. We rely on effective mechanisms to evaluate business conduct, including sound certification schemes and corporate disclosures in line with the UN Guiding Principles on Business and Human Rights: these mechanisms improve investors’ ability to assess human rights and reputational risks in a company’s supply chain allowing us to make more informed investment decisions.” Improving the jewelry industry’s performance on human rights will not be easy. In reality, designers are limited in their ability to conduct human rights due diligence when faced with a desert of information. Designers should continue asking questions, creating demand, and being honest about what they do and do not know about their materials.
At the same time, every other sector of the industry must identify and fulfill its duty to not just respond to risks, but actively seek to prevent them with an emphasis on continual improvement over time. Companies with massive marketing budgets and influence can easily continue shaping the narrative. If they say they are ethical, most will not question them - and the trade will continue operating as it has with “trust” and written assurances. Rather than giving into a feeling of helplessness, consumers of these materials should feel confident that they have a right to know what their purchase is supporting. We can get closer to the truth by amplifying the voices of those we seldom hear, those most at risk along our supply chains. By starting to value miners as a critical voice in decision-making and working together with each other, governments, and NGOs to evolve as sector- the industry can begin to more meaningfully improve its practices while prioritizing respect for human rights.
One of the largest annual events for gemstone and mineral sales is now underway- the Tucson Gemshow - and Cate would like other designers to join her in pushing for answers. Her message to fellow emerging designers is to be careful, meticulous, and keep “Who benefits?” as the primary question in mind when considering a gemstone purchase.
Disclosure: Author is Maggie Gabos. Maggie Gabos is a consultant for Christina T. Miller Sustainable Jewelry Consulting. This article was commissioned by Thesis Gems.
]]>Our passion for beautiful, timeless jewelry is paralleled only by our passion for ethical labor and sustainable mining. We support best practices from source to sale.
This combination of craftsmanship and transparent sourcing is what brings clients to work with us. Learn how you can create a unique and meaningful heirloom to last for generations with Thesis.
(Gold Pebble Pendant with beach pebble, 18 karat reclaimed gold and Canadian diamonds)
When you create a piece of jewelry with Thesis, you know who is crafting your design and exactly what techniques and materials they’re using. Each ring, pendant, and bracelet is hand fabricated by our master goldsmith using ancient goldsmithing techniques rarely used today, including hand carved wax casting. We use investment quality gems cut by the finest contemporary lapidary artists, or gem cutters. And we source only environmentally responsible precious stones and metals.
As one client said, “The ring that [Thesis] created is stunningly beautiful and perfectly executed in quality and design. It’s an heirloom, pure and simple, and I am so fortunate to have it in my family." (See this client’s beautiful custom design here!)
(Custom Colombian emerald ring by Thesis Gems)
We go to great lengths to ensure your vision is flawlessly executed. The entire process is centered on you; through conversation and brainstorming we develop a design that reflects your distinct style and values.
Our collaborative custom design process can be broken broadly into three steps: First we get to know you, then we work closely together to create a design while engaging our artisans at the same time.
It all starts with listening to you. We learn whether you want to create a ring, pair of earrings, a necklace, or another style. We ask about your favorite gemstones and your ideal size and cut. You share pictures, sketches, and any other sources of inspiration you can think of to convey your vision. Once we have a clear concept for your design, we discuss budget and prepare a rough estimate before we proceed to the next step.
Now we flesh out your design and refine it until you are fully satisfied. This happens through close collaboration with our team, including creative brainstorming sessions and feedback on mockups. It’s a fun and exciting process that results in sketches and renderings if needed of your final design. With your ultimate approval, we’re ready to start fabrication.
Our master goldsmith is at the top of her craft- she hand fabricates your jewelry through ancient, labor intensive techniques. Custom pieces generally take four to eight weeks to complete, and we’ll keep you updated throughout the process should any questions or concerns arise.
Once we’ve put the finishing touches on your custom design, we ship it to you overnight with full insurance. Imagine finally opening that package.
Wearable gemstones are not only a wise and valuable investment, they’re works of art that delight the senses. When you design a custom piece of jewelry, you’re creating a true treasure to enjoy throughout your lifetime and for generations to come.
If you are interested in a custom design or bespoke piece, get in touch today. We are happy to answer your questions without expectation or commitment. Reach out via email at cate@thesisgems.com or give us a call at (510) 556-6443. You can also DM us on Instagram.
]]>Diamond and gemstone cutting reach back to prehistoric days when humans learned to carve and shape stones using other, harder stones.
From drawings chiseled in cave walls to blades made from sharp flakes of stone, ancient cultures developed the basic techniques that gave rise to modern drilling, tumbling, polishing, and more.
Over the millennia, gemstone cutting has evolved into an intricate artform utilizing advanced technologies. Read on to learn how our artisans free the “sun-beams” from rough stones to create “brilliant and sparkling” jewels.
The art of gem cutting and polishing is called lapidary, and the artist doing the cutting and polishing is also called a lapidary or lapidarist.
The earliest lapidaries pulled stones from the river and contemplated the smoothing effects of erosion. Now they can facet a diamond or cut a cabochon with astonishing accuracy.
For centuries, lapidaries shaped gemstones using slow, arduous processes like bruting: scraping one diamond against another to carve a crude shape.
Today, more precise bruting can be accomplished with lasers and power-driven machines.
Still, the basic techniques are not a far cry from our ancestors hitting one stone against another. Whether she’s using a programmable machine or a simple hammer and muscle, a lapidary understands how to work with each stone based on its unique level of hardness and desired shape.
Gemstone artists continue to push their craft forward by experimenting with unique cuts and modern techniques. To achieve a variety of gemstone styles, from a classic brilliant cut to a trendy briolette cut, lapidaries rely on the following core processes and techniques.
Just like the rotary rock tumblers people use at home, gemstones are usually first refined by tumbling them in a barrel with various abrasives. The stones are then finely polished by pastes of hard substances.
Diamond, the hardest mineral, is frequently used to polish stones (including diamonds). Man-made polishing compounds, such as silicon carbide and cerium oxide, are also commonly used.
(“Baroque” Mexican fire opal pendant )
Faceting is the process of cutting a gemstone to create the ideal finished design. Through sawing, grinding, and polishing, the lapidary makes a geometric pattern of small planes, or facets, on the stone’s surface.
When cut at the right angles and depth, the facets create a dazzling interplay of light as it passes through the diamond, emerald, or ruby. Faceting today is done using table-top machines that give lapidaries exacting control over every angle.
Not all stones are faceted. The cabochon form — relatively flat and rounded on top — is the preferred shape for softer stones that aren’t enhanced by faceting. The best way to show off an opal’s play-of-color, for example, is by polishing a smooth surface to reflect an even band of light.
Cabbing involves twirling the stone to grind and sand progressively smoother curves either by hand or machine.
(Colombian emerald cabochon and fancy cut rhomboid shape diamond ring)
(Botswana rose cut diamond pendant necklace)
The artists at Thesis Gems & Jewelry are influencing the entire gemstone industry by sourcing rough stones from sustainable and socially responsible mining operations.
We work with some of the finest contemporary lapidary artists to shape these ethically-sourced gemstones into true works of art.
Whether it’s a fancy cut diamond ring or an emerald cabochon, every stone we set has been thoughtfully shaped to bring out its best qualities.
Reach out now to find — or custom design — your own perfectly cut and polished wearable masterpiece.
]]>Thesis relies on the work of master craftsmen to create quality, custom designs from ethically-sourced gold. Our master goldsmiths employ multiple metalworking techniques, such as casting, soldering, and engraving, to create everything from a simple, rough-hewn ring to an intricate pendant inlaid with gemstones.
We primarily use two goldsmithing techniques to make jewelry in our award-winning signature style: hand carved wax casting and hand fabrication.
Moonstone, ruby and diamond pendant fabricated in 22 karat recycled gold
Custom fabricated emerald and diamond ring
Hard carved wax ruby and diamond rings to be cast into 18 karat recycled gold
Custom emerald cabochon ring – hand carved wax will be cast into 18 karat recycled gold
Known as Lost Wax Casting, this ancient process has been used for roughly 5500 years to give lasting form to often detailed and elaborate designs. It’s an almost magical process that transforms a hand-carved wax model into a finished piece.
Step 1: Making the wax model
The initial model can be hand sculpted directly from wax, or sculpted from another material and then cast in wax. To make a one-of-a-kind custom ring, for example, a goldsmith might sculpt a single wax model. To make multiples of a design, however, they might sculpt it in metal, create a mold of this sculpted design, and then create many wax casts from that mold.
Step 2: Making the mold
The wax model is set inside a metal cylinder, which is then filled with a liquid material
(typically plaster). When working with multiple wax models, metalsmiths will attach each
model to a wax “trunk” to form a “tree,” and place the whole tree inside the cylinder. Once the plaster hardens and cures, the cylinder is placed in the oven until the wax melts and runs out of the mold, leaving behind the negative space of the design.
Step 3: Injecting the precious metal
Molten metal is now injected into the negative space and cooled until it hardens. The metal is separated from the plaster mold, revealing the design in solid gold.
Step 4: Finishing the piece
Finally, the goldsmith cleans, polishes, and refines the design. They may also set gemstones into the piece at this time.
Hand Fabricated Goldsmithing
A hand fabricated piece of gold jewelry has been meticulously made by hand. In this traditional method of goldsmithing, several handmade components are fused together to create a design, rather than sculpting a model, casting a mold, or using machines.
Starting with a sheet or block of pure gold material, called an ingot, the goldsmith uses hammer, chisel, fire, and more to bring their vision to life. While this method has many variables depending on the desired design, the following techniques and tools are commonly used:
Gold has been worked by humans across cultures for thousands of years, transforming the raw metal into ceremonial items, decor, weaponry, utensils, and, of course, jewelry. Sadly, modern mining practices can be highly destructive and toxic to the environment, putting this ancient art in jeopardy.
If you follow Thesis Gems & Jewelry at all, you know that social and environmental responsibility are at the core of all we do. We source 100% recycled gold from companies audited for sustainability. These companies also support artisanal, small-scale, Fairtrade mining.
Take a look at the many unique, hand-crafted gold designs in our shop. If you don’t see the perfect piece, remember our master craftsmen are available to create your dream design.
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While you can learn about your jewelry’s origins from the comfort of your home, I encourage you to embrace every opportunity to travel straight to the source. More precious than the gems and jewelry we collect are the people and places that they represent. Discovering them first-hand will add layers of meaning to your own collection.
To inspire your journey, here are four awe-inspiring travel destinations where gems are ethically mined and produced.
Guaymas, Mexico is a beautiful and historic port city on the Sea of Cortez. Visitors can explore the unique ecosystems and dazzling views of the mountains, desert, and sea, including the only cultured saltwater pearl farm in North and South America.
Perlas del Mar de Cortez is the only pearl farm in the world using the rainbow lipped oyster to cultivate Cortez Pearls in an unusual array of colors and shapes. Their annual VIP Pearl Harvest allows a limited number of groups to experience the harvest, meet the farm founders, learn about their sustainable, 100% fair trade practices, and much more.
Visit with our collaborator IEEX Emeralds in Bogotá to examine and choose emeralds for yourself at the source. Boyaca is an incredible mountainous region in northern Colombia, offering tourists everything from colonial villages to tropical ecosystems found nowhere else in the world. The emerald mines in the remote town of Chivor — and the unparalleled emeralds they uncover — are a highlight of this breathtaking area.
Visitors to Chivor can tour a working emerald mine, and hike to a nearby reservoir and waterfalls while they’re at it. There are many emerald tours available, including immersive opportunities to don a headlamp and experience emerald mining for a day.
On the outskirts, visit a historic coffee farm at Cafe De La Trinidad for the ultimate Bed and Breakfast experience.
Sri Lanka was once known as “Ratna Dweepa,” or the Land of Gems, and it is still one of the biggest gem producers in the world. It was also known as Ceylon, which is why sapphires from this island nation are still called Ceylon sapphires.
To see some of the oldest sapphire mines and techniques, visit Ratnapura, the “City of Gems.” But you can venture throughout the ancient and beautiful country and find many mines and sites where gems are cut, manufactured, and sold. You may be surprised to see sapphires in a range of colors, including pink, yellow, and green.
Some of the finest Australian opals come from Lightning Ridge, a small outback town at the border of Queensland and New South Wales. Lightning Ridge is known for its dazzling black opal, but there are countless other rarities to encounter, including underground sculptures, castles, gardens, artesian baths, galleries, and breathtaking desert landscapes.
We source our opals from Hopkins Opal, a multi-generational family company dedicated to preserving the biodiversity of the region. Several companies offer guided tours of opal mining fields like Hopkins, including visits to a walk-in mine and opportunities to try your hand at fossicking (an Aussie word for gem prospecting).
If you do go jet setting this summer, follow these tips from 1stdibs Jewels to preserve precious metals and gemstones:
At Thesis, we take pride in building personal connections with our gemstone sources. We contribute to multiple organizations working to improve the environmental and labor practices of mines worldwide and support mining families.
We encourage you to form your own connections with the vibrant, global gemstone industry. Reach out today for more tips, or to learn more about the origins of your favorite piece of jewelry.
]]>Thankfully, IEEX Emeralds is raising the bar for transparency in the industry with emeralds from Colombia’s most legendary mines.
Colombia’s unique geology is said to create the finest emeralds on earth. Indeed, IEEX emeralds owe their superior color and clarity to the unique qualities of the famous Muzo and Chivor mines in Boyaca, Colombia.
Unlike other emeralds that are found in solidified magma, Colombian emeralds form in sedimentary rock. Extreme pressure from tectonic activity turns beryllium, chromium, and vanadium in the earth into liquid and gas, which slides between sedimentary layers, then cools and crystallizes. A saline solution found in the sedimentary rock helps wash out unwanted impurities as the emerald forms.
Rough Colombian emeralds from the Muzo mine (source)
IEEX ensures that the quality of their emeralds goes far beyond the cut, color, and clarity of the stone. From the mines, to the welfare of the miners and local lapidaries, each link in the chain is considered equally as important as the gems themselves.
I spoke to George Smith, owner of IEEX, directly to learn more. He explained the ways in which he is involved at each stage of mining, cutting, and buying process in order to honor the land and people that bring us such extraordinary emeralds.
“Open-pit mining doesn’t exist anymore,” says George, referring to an environmentally disastrous mining method that was common in Colombia just decades ago. Under old practices, excavated rock from open-pit mines would be dumped the nearest body of water, and erosion and pollution were rampant.
George explains that IEEX Emeralds “are mined through tunneling, without toxic chemicals. There are no acids, chemicals, or mercury involved.” The mines are surrounded by mountains and virgin forest where “snakes are common, as are all manner of butterflies.”
George Smith, owner of IEEX Emeralds, with a mine manager (source)
“Emerald mining in the Colombian tropics is, and will always be, tough work,” notes George. “The remote, isolated nature, and blistering heat of the mining region is a world away from the kind of workplaces most of us in the West have become accustomed to.”
That’s why they have taken care to improve the lives and working conditions of the miners. IEEX miners work in safe, properly regulated conditions in 8-hour shifts with an hour lunch and two designated breaks. They are paid two times the national minimum wage, health insurance for all staff is mandatory, and absolutely no child labor is used.
Rather than exporting rough emeralds to Asia, IEEX emeralds are cut by a master lapidary in Bogotá. The reason for this is to invest in the local economy and minimize their carbon footprint.
A lapidary is an artisan who cuts, polishes, and engraves gems. IEEX sends their carefully selected rough gemstones to master lapidary Ricardo Jimenez. With over 40 years of experience, he is a skilled and passionate master cutter who has handled some of the finest emeralds to come out of Colombia.
Master lapidary Ricardo Jimenez (source)
IEEX certified emeralds offer full transparency, right up through the final inspection process. Before finally being shipped to buyers across the world, every emerald is analyzed according to color, clarity, cut, and luster.
The inspection begins in-house, continues at a local gemological laboratory, and ultimately may reach a second laboratory for confirmatory analysis. When the emeralds get to us at Thesis, we can confidently verify their source and quality, as well as the mining methods and labor practices that made them possible.
The ancient Greeks believed that emeralds could improve your memory and help you see the past, present, and future more clearly. IEEX Emeralds are proving this fable true by bringing clarity to gemstone sourcing, from mine to market.
Thesis is honored to partner with IEEX to provide heirloom quality pieces from legendary Colombian emeralds that you can be proud to wear. Reach out today to learn how we can create a one-of-a-kind emerald heirloom of your own.
]]>Bridge diamond ring with Canadian pear diamonds and 18 karat reclaimed gold.
Do you know how many hands it takes to make a ring? This is the question posed (and answered) by Ethical Metalsmiths, a community of buyers, jewelers, designers, and suppliers vigilantly committed to ensuring every pair of hands that helps make a ring (or any piece of jewelry) uses ethical practices.
Thesis Gems is proud to become a member of Ethical Metalsmiths, continuing our journey toward social and environmental responsibility and joining a vibrant community of professionals who sharpen one another. Now we have even more knowledge and resources to draw from as we strive to deliver the most ethical jewelry possible to our customers.
From mining and sourcing raw metals and gemstones to marketing and buying the finished product, jewelry passes through many hands. If we don’t use thoughtful practices at every step, people, animals, and the environment are put at risk. With education and activism, Ethical Metalsmiths is making sure communities and ecosystems are not only protected, but also nurtured and sustained.
At Thesis, we source our own gems, gold, and pearls, so we want to be as informed as possible. Ethical Metalsmiths is an incredible resource for data on the true impact of the gem industry on mining communities and the environment. The community also shares invaluable information on how to source ethical gold, non-toxic jewelry making, and organizations that give back to mining communities.
Sea of Cortez Semi Baroque Pearls, sourced from a sustainable saltwater pearl farm in Guyamas, Mexico.
Ethical Metalsmiths traces the journey of a piece of jewelry across eight touchpoints.
Gemstone mining can be life-threatening work, and the long term effects on the environment can be devastating. Thankfully, passionate miners all over the world are adopting new practices and learning to make mining safer and more sustainable.
Extracting gold and silver typically relies on toxic chemicals that pollute the environment. But alternative processes for precious metals can help us turn a new leaf.
Refiners processing raw gold and silver into pure metals face everything from burns and explosions to toxic dust. Greater transparency in metal refining practices can benefit workers and ecosystems.
Gem cutters make gemstones gleam and sparkle. Sadly, some gem cutters don’t have proper ventilation or safety measures in place, causing serious health problems. Through education and better worksite standards, these artisans can be protected.
Designing the finished product, or overall direction of a jewelry brand, designers are often responsible for sourcing their materials. This gives designers power to change the industry by choosing ethical gemstones and metals, just like we do at Thesis.
Using metalsmithing techniques, these individuals actually cast and forge the design. Toxic fumes, explosions, and burns are all potential threats in a metalsmith’s workplace. Ethical metalsmiths are choosing to use recycled and reclaimed materials and eco-friendly chemicals.
From boutique, artisanal shops like Thesis, to department stores, retailers bring the finished piece direct to the collector. You might think the work is done before jewelry reaches the store, but retailers play a critical role: they can choose to sell only ethical jewelry and tell their customers why.
Finally, people like you also hold the power to transform the jewelry industry by shopping trusted retailers. Is there transparency into the ring or necklace’s journey? Were workers treated and paid fairly? Are mining environments properly protected and cared for? Don’t be afraid to ask.
Ethical Metalsmiths offers information and guidance for those of us who will never stop trying to do things better. As if this wasn’t enough, this community also led me to Christina Miller and Maggie Gabos, two new expert consultants helping Thesis become as robust and resilient as possible.
To learn more about how you can do your part as an ethical collector, reach out today. I would love to help you find a piece with a story worth telling.
]]>There is a myriad of brands that claim to use fair labor practices and support ecological conservation, but I had nothing to go on but their word; and this would often ring hollow. I seek documentation from sources in order to gain transparency into their processes. Positive Luxury helps in this effort to “place social and environmental responsibility at the heart” of the industry.
With their Butterfly Mark, Positive Luxury recognizes companies making a positive social and environmental impact, so you and I can begin to identify which brands to trust.
I am beyond proud to share that Thesis Gems and Jewelry has been awarded the Butterfly Mark by Positive Luxury for our core commitment to sustainability. This means you’ll now see the trademark butterfly on our website — an interactive “trust mark” you can click on for a more in-depth look at how we practice.
The Butterfly Mark is awarded through an application process in which a company is evaluated across governance, a social and environmental framework, philanthropy, and innovation. To earn our wings, we had to show that we go beyond the minimum standards in sustainability and strive for best practices from source to sale.
What’s most meaningful to me about the Butterfly Mark is that it makes my dream a bit more concrete. I can’t wait to continue evolving from this foundation of ethical integrity.
Earning the trust mark is only the beginning. Thesis is now part of a community that encourages one another to continually improve. The award is actually a symbol of my commitment to a stringent code of conduct — a code that I ask my sources to contractually uphold.
Our Supplier Code of Conduct helps to protect the rights of children and workers, ensures safe working conditions and living wages, and protects animals and the environment from destructive practices. The standards are based on the Universal Declaration of Human Rights, as well as other internationally recognized workers’ rights and development principles. We are in the process of asking all of our sources to sign this document.
The Butterfly Mark has the potential, like the flap of wings, to create a powerful ripple effect throughout the gemstone and jewelry market. The seal will hopefully give thoughtful collectors confidence that their heirlooms are part of a greater movement to support communities and heal ecosystems across the globe.
Gro Harlem Brundtland, considered a mother of sustainable development, said true sustainability “meets the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs.” Thesis truly believe that our profit should not be out of proportion to those of the people and land from which our gems came from.
This definition guides our decisions and plainly expresses why we do what we do. At Thesis, we are actively fighting for future generations by upholding these four values — or four wings, if you will.
I think daily about ways to support ecological conservation and fair labor, and I am always building relationships with like-minded organizations. We take social responsibility very seriously and adhere to the universal sustainability principles of the UN Global Compact. We are members of Ethical Metalsmiths and 1% for the Planet, and our sources use sustainable mining practices and proudly contribute to PACT and The Gem Legacy.
Mining precious metals and gemstones can be incredibly harmful to workers and the environment. We carefully ensure our diamonds and gold were mined in a way that minimizes the environmental footprint while maximizing social impact. We use 100% SCS certified recycled gold from Hoover and Strong. And we source post-consumer vintage or antique diamonds, Canadamark or other traceable and artisanal diamonds. We favor vintage colored gem stones as well, and use a mine-to-market approach that identifies as best as possible exactly where our colored gems are coming from, and where they are cut and polished so that we can be fully aware of operations, each step of the way.
That old slogan means do everything you can eliminate waste and reduce your impact on the environment. We strive to cut down on waste everywhere, for example, only using marketing materials and paper packaging certified by sustainable forest management organizations.
To further promote sustainable practices, we use grass-fed leather for our heirloom pouches. They are tanned with vegetable dyes, and made in San Francisco.
We want to represent more than a slogan of conflict-free. Thesis strives to give you traceability which is the ultimate measure by which we can know who benefits in the industry and by how much.
Positive Luxury and the Butterfly Mark are helping to identify brands to trust at the intersection of luxury and sustainability. I can’t imagine a more fitting award for Thesis Gems and Jewelry. When you wear one of our pieces, you are displaying your personal commitment to sustainability. Beside your sleeve; why not wear your heart around your neck, or dangling from your ears?
If you want to find an heirloom that expresses your values, and honors craftsmanship and quality, please get in touch today.
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Demand for original cuts, combined with a growing number of designers taking risks and experimenting, is causing a revolution in the gem industry. A wider variety of cuts means more ways to interpret each gem, the opportunity to discover greater value in all types of stones, and freedom to create the look you love best.
The value of a gem is affected by five features: color, origin, size, shape, and cut. Cut is special because it can enhance almost all of the other features, significantly influencing a gemstone’s appraisal.
Good cutting can increase value 10 to 40 percent, depending on a variety of factors. The greatest impact is typically seen in simple colored gems cut by known and respected designers. But a unique cut can provide a fresh take on just about any stone, adding value with a singular design.
Gem cutting is an art of translation. Like translating a poem from Mandarin to English, or transforming a block of marble into an exquisite sculpture, the gemcutter must decide how to give their material new life in a fresh language.
To create something truly unique that still preserves and augments the beauty of the original, gemcutters must first master their craft. As one of the oldest professions, stone cutting and faceting techniques have been perfected over thousands of years. From the popular princess cut to an intricate intaglio, gemcutters have many shapes and styles to play with.
The challenge is to use the traditional methods to create new facet arrangements that break the light into unusual patterns. Just as a fresh translation can breathe new life into a sonnet, a unique cut can allow us to see a ruby or alexandrite as if for the first time.
Be Inspired by These Unique Cuts
In the words of Jane Austen, “One man's style must not be the rule of another's.” While she may not have been talking about diamonds and pearls, her words are certainly true for jewelry designers and collectors today.
Unique cuts are often pioneered by individual artists. Designer cuts, also known as precision cuts, are styles that feature a new shape or new arrangement of facets. Designers may play with pattern and contrast to create something visually striking, sometimes at the expense of other features. For example, they may work to turn up the brightness, even if it means weakened color, if that’s the desired effect.
While there are too many types of unique cuts to list, here are two examples that show the wide range of possibilities.
Fantasy cut pink tourmaline by Sherris Cottier Shank
Fantasy cut: While the fantasy cut was invented in the mid 20th century, it is still unique and memorable. This is largely because no two fantasy cuts are alike. Gemcutter Bernd Munsteiner developed the technique of cutting grooves and concave facets on the back of gemstones in order to create a striking display of light on the front. Designers ever since have used this technique to make signature fantasy cuts, which are often intricate works of art.
Freeform cut: A freeform cut is exactly what it sounds like. Gems are cut and polished according to what features the gemcutter wants to bring out of the raw stone, rather than a particular pattern or rule. Freeform gemstones come in irregular shapes and often emphasize rough beauty and natural striations, though they can also be highly polished and delicately carved.
I draw on close relationships with my sources, artisans, and designers to bring unusual gemstones and exceptional craftsmanship to my clients. Together we can help you find -- or custom design -- jewelry worth treasuring. If you’re looking for a distinctive, expertly-cut gemstone, take the first step and reach out today for a consultation.
]]>If you've been reading along with me, it's clear that my favorite gems almost all display more than one color. But I haven’t yet described one of the most delightful properties of multicolor stones: pleochroism.
The term pleochroism comes from the Greek words "pleo," meaning many, and "chros," meaning color. These enigmatic stones are the chameleons of the mineral world and can display prominent shifts in color when viewed from different directions.
This shift in color is revealed not only through light reflected back from the stone's surface, but also through light that passes through the stone. This is because pleochroic crystals are able to absorb different colors of light depending on how their internal crystalline structure interacts with the wavelengths of light that pass through them.
The result of this interaction of structure and light is that a pleochroic gemstone may display a dramatic shift in hue. For example, the stone may appear blue when viewed at one angle and green at another.
Unheated tanzanite pear pair from Tanzania
East West ring featuring Namibian tourmaline by Thesis Gems
Unlike alexandrite which displays color change under different light sources, pleochroic stones can visibly shift color in just an instant as their wearer moves. I think pleochroic stones truly come alive only when worn, as they catch the light and shift in color to mysterious effect. These stones are meant to be lived with, and their unique qualities make them a prized addition to any jewelry lover's collection.
If you're interested in adding a unique color-shifting stone like tourmaline or tanzanite to your collection, please reach out today. I'd be thrilled to share my love for these alluring gems and help you choose or design a piece to inspire you for years to come.